Acne occurs when excess oil and dead skin cells become trapped within hair follicles, creating a plug within the pore. This plug is called a comedo. A comedo can be open (blackhead) or can be closed by skin (whitehead) and can occur with or without acne. Blackheads and whiteheads are examples of non-inflamed comedones.
As the breakout progresses and bacteria invade, the follicle wall may rupture within the dermis, creating inflammation and redness. Inflamed blemishes vary in severity depending on the damage to the follicle wall and the amount of infection present. Severe cases of acne may lead to deeper lesions and cysts. Acne lesions are most common on the face, but they can also occur on the neck, chest, back, shoulders, and upper arms.
Acne commonly starts during puberty between the ages of 10 and 13 and tends to be worse in people with oily skin. Although acne remains largely a curse of adolescence, about 20% of all cases still occur in adults.
Teenage acne usually lasts for 5 – 10 years, normally going away during the early 20s. It occurs in both sexes but tends to be worse in boys. Women are more likely than men to have mild to moderate forms into their 30s and beyond.
An holistic approach to treating acne
As with all health conditions, it is vital to work holistically when it comes to this often distressing condition. This is particularly important as the orthodox medical approach often incorporates some extremely harsh drug treatments which can have substantial side effects. I would recommend you exhaust all other options before going down this route – which at the end of the day is suppressing the symptoms rather than combating the fundamental causes.
A multi-faceted approach is really important. Most forms of “dis-ease” in the body are an expression of a variety of different issues coming together to create the symptoms. It is often, therefore – a variety of different solutions that help resolve the situation, and this is especially true with acne.
Your skin is the largest organ of your body. Skin conditions really express what is happening internally in an external way – so helping the body from the “inside out” as well as the “outside in” is vital for a long-term solution.
When treating clients my approach includes the following:
- Food allergy testing
- Detox
- Hormone regulation
- Stress relief (read blog)
- Dietary improvement
- Nutritional medicine – supplementation
- Aromatherapy skin care regime (see below)
If symptoms persist after 3-6 months following this new regime I recommend considering Traditional Chinese Medicine (Acupuncture & Herbs) – or Homeopathy.
Caring for acne prone skin
A good skincare routine is essential in treating acne.
- Cleansing: The most important thing is to keep the skin as clean as possible. Wash your skin twice a day with a ‘gentle’ face wash to remove dirt, impurities and excess oils. Use warm, not hot water and avoid any harsh scrubbing that could cause further irritation.
- Gentle exfoliation: When you exfoliate your skin correctly it can help to clear away dead skin cells and unblock clogged pores. Over-exfoliating with harsh products can however irritate the skin and worsen breakouts. Exfoliating has a drying effect on the skin, so if you over-do it, it can cause your skin to produce more oil to compensate, which is the last thing you want.
- Gentle toning: Using a gentle astringent toner after washing can help to eliminate any remaining excess oil as well as tighten and reduce the appearance of open/enlarged pores. Avoid using harsh, chemical-laden toners that will over-strip the skin and ‘increase’ sebum production.
- Moisturisation: Even oily and acne prone skin needs moisture. Make sure to look for products that are non-comedogenic which means they won’t block the pores and cause breakouts. If the skin dries out too much it can cause further irritation and encourage your skin to go into ‘emergency mode’ – producing more oil to counteract the dryness.
- Do not pick: Although it can tempting, try not to pop or squeeze spots as this can push the bacteria and blockage deeper into the skin and make the spot even worse. It may also cause scarring.
Aromatherapy skincare for acne
There are several ways that essential oils can help to treat acne:
- Reducing the amount of sebum that the skin produces
- Helping clear infection and reducing inflammation
- Balancing hormones
- Aiding the body’s detoxification process
- Encouraging skin healing and reducing scarring
- Relieving anxiety, stress or depression
Best essential oils for acne
There are a number of essential oils that can be helpful for acne and these should be selected according to your particular circumstances. Once you have found the most effective oils it may help to vary them from time to time during treatment. Some of the most popular choices are highlighted below.
Tea Tree is one of the best oils to use for its bactericidal properties. Studies have shown that topical application of Tea Tree oil can be an effective treatment for mild to moderate acne and a viable alternative to the common acne treatment, Benzoyl Peroxide
Lavender is bactericidal and helps to balance and soothe the skin and promote healing. It can also help relieve anxiety and stress which could either be a trigger for breakouts or a direct result of the acne.
Bergamot is a great antiseptic as well as an astringent – which means it can fight infection and reduce excess sebum (oil). It’s also renowned for its antidepressant properties. Note: Bergamot is phototoxic so should not be applied topically prior to sun exposure.
Geranium is wonderfully balancing for the skin, hormones and mood. It also aids skin cell regeneration and stimulates the lymphatic system to help rid the body of toxins.
Frankincense aids healing, stimulates the growth of healthy new skin cells and reduces the appearance of acne scars.
Gentle aromatherapy blends for acne prone skin
Gentle Foaming Face Wash
Mix 200ml SLS Free Bath & Shower Gel (suitable for use on the face), 5ml of nutrient rich Aloe Vera & Seaweed Gel, 1ml of Vitamin E oil, 12 drops Tea Tree, 4 drops of Lavender and 4 drops Ravensara.
Naturally Astringent Skin Toner
Mix 150ml Orange Flower Hydrolat with 20 drops Lavender, 20 drops Bergamot, 10 drops Geranium, 5 drops Tea Tree and 2 drops Neroli. Shake well before use and apply onto cotton wool pads. Wipe the cotton pads across the face gently morning and evening, especially across the T Zone and any particularly oily areas. This will help to cleanse, remove excess oils and balance sebum out-put.
On the Spot Acne Gel
Blend 50ml Aloe Vera & Seaweed Gel with 10 drops Tea Tree essential oil, 10 drops Lavender and 3 drops German Chamomile. Mix well. Dab onto any spots or areas of redness to help fight infection and reduce inflammation.
Exfoliating Face Mask
Place 1 tablespoon of French Green Clay, 1 tablespoon of White Kaolin Clay, 1 teaspoon ground oats, ½ teaspoon fine ground Dead Sea Salt and 1 teaspoon runny honey in a bowl. Add enough Rose Hydrolat to mix to a yoghurt like paste. Add 5 drops Lavender, 3 drops Geranium, 3 drops Tea Tree and 3 drops Neroli. Gently massage into the skin with the fingertips using small, light rotating movements. Leave on for 10 minutes and then wash off with cold water. Use once or twice per week.
Moisturising Facial Serum
Mix 75ml Rosehip Seed Oil (a natural acne treatment), 25ml Evening Primrose Oil, 12 drops Tea Tree, 6 drops Lavender and 6 drops Ravensara. Massage in a few drops at night after cleansing and toning.
Acne Scarring Treatment Oil
To help with the scarring we recommend Rosehip Seed Oil and Frankincense which have excellent skin healing and regenerating properties. Mix 2 drops of Frankincense and 1 drop of Lavender with 10ml of Rosehip Seed Oil and a few drops apply to the area twice daily. Note: Do not use if acne is active.
Recovery Range
You can buy all of the above mentioned aromatherapy oils and other ingredients on our website. If you don’t want to blend your own products however, we recommend our Recovery+ Range, which is especially designed to help purify problem skin and fight breakouts.
Safety Note
We are all individuals and our skin reacts differently in relation to our genetic pre-disposition and our current level of health and wellbeing. As with all skin conditions it is particularly important to do a skin patch test before using a new product on the whole face/affected area. Dab a small amount of the product onto a chosen area of skin – a sensitive area like the inner arm or neck. Leave on for 5 minutes – if no stinging or reaction occurs within 24 hours, use as advised.
If you”d like any further advice please feel free to contact us!
Joannah Metcalfe
Consultant Aromatherapist
Disclaimer & Safety Advice